Kimchi (Tongbaechu-kimchi)

Instructions

1. Trim the base of each cabbage and cut each one lengthwise into quarters, leaving enough core attached so the leaves stay together.
2. Dissolve the salt in the water. Pour a little salted water between the leaves, then sprinkle a little extra salt closer to the thick white parts of the cabbage. Repeat until all the quarters are seasoned.
3. Set the cabbage in a large bowl or tub and let it brine for 4 to 6 hours, turning once or twice, until the white stems bend easily without snapping.
4. Rinse the cabbage quarters well under cold water 2 to 3 times to remove excess salt. Drain thoroughly in a colander for 30 minutes.
5. Make the porridge. Whisk the sweet rice flour and water together in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until lightly thickened. Stir in the sugar and cook for 30 seconds more. Cool.
6. Make the seasoning paste. Blend or finely mince the garlic, onion, ginger, fish sauce, salted shrimp, and pear or apple if using. Stir this mixture into the cooled porridge. Add the gochugaru and mix into a thick red paste.
7. Add the radish, green onions, and chives to the paste. Mix well.
8. Wearing gloves, spread the seasoning between the leaves of each cabbage quarter, starting with the outer leaves and working inward. Use enough paste to coat every layer, but do not pack it on like wall plaster. Kimchi deserves better.
9. Fold each quarter into a tidy bundle and pack it snugly into clean jars or a container, pressing down to remove air gaps.
10. Leave the kimchi at cool room temperature for 1 to 2 days, depending on your kitchen, until it smells lively and lightly tangy. Then refrigerate.
11. For the best flavor, chill the kimchi for at least 2 to 3 more days before serving. Slice as needed and serve cold.