Wait, kimchi wasn’t always red?

Picture kimchi, and chances are you see cabbage stained a deep, fiery red. But kimchi had a long life before red pepper became part of the picture. So what did it look like before the heat arrived?

Before the Heat

Kimchi started with a very practical problem: winter. Vegetables don’t keep forever, so Koreans preserved them with salt and fermentation. No scarlet paste. No blast of chile. Just vegetables, brine and time.

Over the centuries, cooks added garlic, ginger, seafood and other seasonings, creating an extraordinary range of kimchi. Red pepper joined the story much later. Korean cultural sources say kimchi’s familiar red color appeared sometime after the 16th century and was firmly established by the 19th.

South Korea Kimchi (Tongbaechu-kimchi)

And what a makeover. Red pepper brought color, heat, and a flavor so closely tied to Kimchi that earlier versions can seem almost impossible to picture.

Except they never entirely disappeared.

Baek-kimchi, or white Kimchi, skips the red pepper. Other varieties use radish, cucumber or watery brines. Some wake up your entire mouth; others are cool, crisp and mild. Kimchi isn’t really one recipe. It’s a whole family of fermented foods.

Then there’s kimjang, the tradition of families and communities making large batches of Kimchi for winter and sharing the work and the results. UNESCO recognized kimjang as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013.

The color changed. The deeper idea didn’t: preserve what the season gives you, make enough to share and pass the know-how and fiery flavor along.

South Korea Bibimbap

Featured Country: South Korea

A Korean meal rarely asks one dish to do all the work. Rice anchors the table while soups, grilled meats and an assortment of banchan bring contrast, crunch, heat and fermentation. Kimchi is the constant companion, but never the whole story. From bulgogi to bibimbap, Korean cooking thrives on balance, variety and plenty of reasons to reach across the table. Explore South Korea on CountryCuisines

Start Cooking: South Korea

South Korea Kimchi (Tongbaechu-kimchi)

South Korean Kimchi

Make the cabbage kimchi that inspired this issue, packed with garlic, ginger, gochugaru and plenty of fermentation magic.

South Korean Beef Bulgogi from a recipe from CountryCuisines.com

Korean Beef Bulgogi

Thinly sliced beef gets a sweet-savory marinade before hitting the heat. Fast, deeply flavorful and best with rice.

South Korean Gochujang Buttered Noodles

Gochujang Noodles

Butter meets gochujang in a quick bowl of spicy, glossy noodles that proves Korean chile has range beyond Kimchi.

Food Trivia: Kimchi has its own refrigerator?

Kimchi refrigerator by LG

Kimchi is taken seriously enough in Korea to have an appliance designed around it. Kimchi refrigerators use precise temperature controls to manage fermentation and storage, and some models offer different settings for cabbage kimchi, water kimchi, produce and even meat. Samsung and LG both sell versions today. (photo courtesy LG UK)

Excessive? Not if your household has several kinds fermenting at once. Think of it as a wine fridge, except the prized vintage is cabbage and opening the door makes a much stronger first impression.

How Well Do You Know Rice?

CountryCuisines Quiz icon

Kimchi may get the headlines, but rice is the quiet hero at Korean tables and across much of the world. How much do you really know about the grain many eat every day? Take our Rice Lovers Trivia Quiz and see whether your rice knowledge is perfectly steamed or still a little undercooked.

Ready to roll? Explore all CountryCuisines quizzes.

Favorite Find: E-Jen Fermentation Container

eJen fermentation container

Making Kimchi at home gets easier when the cabbage stays where it belongs: under the brine. E-Jen’s Korean fermentation container uses an adjustable inner plate to press food down and limit air contact while it ferments. A smart design for home fermentation, particularly Kimchi. It’s practical, reusable and much easier than balancing an improvised weight on top of a jar and hoping for the best. Visit E-Jen.

Share The Menu

Know someone who assumes Kimchi has always been red? Send them this issue and give them something new to bring up over dinner. Better yet, forward The Menu to the friend who always orders the Kimchi, steals yours too and insists they could make it at home. Now they have a recipe.

Next Week

Next week: India Has No Single Curry. So Why Do We Call It That?